There are some cities that seem almost designed for a weekend away, and Bath is certainly one of them.
Honey-coloured Georgian buildings, elegant crescents, independent shops and centuries of history sit alongside fabulous restaurants, bars and, of course, those famous thermal waters. It’s a city that positively encourages you to slow down, wander and see where the day takes you.
For our stay, home was The The Queensberry Hotel, an independently owned boutique hotel tucked away on a peaceful Georgian street, yet close enough to wander into the heart of Bath within minutes.
And boutique really is the word. Stepping inside feels more like arriving at the rather fabulous home of an exceptionally stylish friend than checking into a hotel. Original Georgian features ornate cornicing, wall panelling, tall sash windows and handsome fireplaces, provide the backdrop, but there’s nothing predictable about the interiors.
Plush sofas in mustard and charcoal sit alongside petrol-blue wingback chairs, patterned fabrics, botanical arrangements and quirky pieces of furniture. Pops of colour appear where you least expect them, while beautiful lighting and carefully chosen artwork give each space its own personality.
Our bedroom continued the theme, mixing heritage with a contemporary edge. A huge, inviting bed took centre stage beneath a textured statement headboard, while metallic lighting and geometric wallpaper added a touch of glamour. The bathroom was equally gorgeous, with rich green metro tiles, tropical wallpaper, parquet-style flooring and a fabulous roll-top bath.
One of the loveliest ways to discover the city is simply to walk. Around almost every corner is another beautiful façade, sweeping crescent or independent shop tempting you inside.
We also hopped aboard the open-top sightseeing bus, an effortless way to get our bearings while taking in some of Bath’s best-known sights, including the Royal Crescent and The Circus.
After plenty of exploring, thoughts were turning towards dinner and dinner at The Queensberry is rather special.
We began with pre-dinner drinks in the hotel’s beautiful walled garden before heading downstairs to The Olive Tree, Bath’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, headed by Chris Cleghorn.
Dinner began with the incredible Black Treacle & Rye Bread, served with Ivy House clotted cream and lamb fat, a perfect indication of what was to come.
We deliberately chose opposite dishes, allowing us to try a little of everything. Carrot with Cornish Kern, lovage and salted lemon contrasted beautifully with the richer Veal Sweetbread, while mains brought Newlyn Market Lobster with Isle of Wight tomato and basil and Sladesdown Farm Duck with sweetcorn, girolle and black garlic.
Beautifully presented, clever and sometimes surprising, this is food that makes you slow down and pay attention, accompanied by plenty of “you have to try this” across the table.
Dessert continued the theme with Islands Chocolate with fig leaf, olive oil and 50-year-old balsamic, alongside Cheddar Strawberry with custard, sheep’s yoghurt and lemon verbena.
By the time we climbed into that enormous bed, very little encouragement was needed for a good night’s sleep.
The following morning, suitably rested and refuelled, it was time for another quintessential Bath experience.
You can’t come to a city built around its thermal waters and not get in them.
At Thermae Bath Spa, naturally warm, mineral-rich water fills the Minerva Bath, while the Wellness Suite provides plenty of opportunities to warm, steam and generally do very little. But the highlight has to be the open-air rooftop pool.
Floating in beautifully warm water surrounded by Bath’s historic rooftops, spires and honey-coloured buildings is quite surreal. There aren’t many places where you can be submerged in thermal water while looking across a UNESCO World Heritage city.
Eventually, and somewhat reluctantly, we dragged ourselves back onto dry land and wandered around Bath Abbey, whose magnificent Gothic architecture dominates the city centre, before simply strolling the streets. And that’s half the pleasure of Bath, you don’t necessarily need an itinerary.
It was then time to head to The Francis Hotel, where a little more indulgence awaited in its spa. After a morning spent walking and wallowing in thermal water, sinking onto a treatment bed felt like an entirely reasonable way to spend the afternoon.
Suitably pampered, we headed to Emberwood, the hotel’s restaurant, although first, a glass of something chilled was definitely in order.
Sage-green banquettes, marble-topped tables, burnt-orange velvet chairs and tumbling greenery create a space that feels elegant and contemporary without being formal. The menu celebrates British produce, with much of the cooking centred around the open hearth.
We started with Chicken Liver Parfait, rich and silky with Pedro Ximénez jelly, celery and shallots, and Picked Cornish Crab with crab oil mayonnaise, tarragon and pickled lemon.
For mains, the beautifully cooked Cornish Cod came with caramelised fennel, samphire and charred potatoes, while the Pork Schnitzel, with anchovy and celeriac remoulade and garlic butter fries, was altogether more indulgent. Carefully chosen wine pairings completed each course beautifully.
By this point, dessert probably wasn’t strictly necessary.
And then the trolley arrived. Not a menu. An actual sweet trolley, wheeled to the table laden with cakes, choux buns, macarons, pralines and other dangerously tempting creations. Opening the drawers beneath to reveal even more treats felt positively unfair on anyone attempting to exercise restraint.
Leaving Bath, one thing was very clear, there was still so much more we wanted to see.
We’d walked its beautiful Georgian streets, soaked in its thermal waters, gazed up at Bath Abbey, stayed in beautiful luxury hotels, eaten our way through some seriously indulgent food and squeezed in rather more pampering than can reasonably be considered essential.
Yet somehow, it still felt as though we’d only scratched the surface.
There were more streets to wander, more restaurants to discover, more history to uncover and, quite possibly, another spa treatment or two with our name on it.
Bath, it seems, isn’t a city you simply visit once. It’s a city that gives you plenty of reasons to come back.
BOOK IT
The Queensbury Hotel, www.thequeensberry.co.uk
The Francis Hotel, www.francishotel.com
Thermae Bath Spa, www.thermaebathspa.com
www.visitwest.co.uk
