If it’s good enough for Royalty, it’s certainly good enough for the rest of us. Hartwell House, set within 90 acres of sweeping parkland, is one of those rare English retreats that feels both timeless and deeply personal. Now owned by the National Trust and lovingly managed by Historic House Hotels, its history stretches back nearly a thousand years, including an extraordinary chapter as the home of the exiled Louis XVIII of France. Yet what truly elevates Hartwell is the spell it casts from the moment you arrive.
The approach alone sets the tone. As my car curved gently along the long, tree-lined avenue, it was easy to imagine the sound of horse-drawn carriages once travelling the same route. There is something cinematic about those first few moments, the stately silhouette of the house coming into view, the quiet anticipation as you near the entrance, and the subtle sense that the world beyond the gates has politely slipped away.
Stepping through the imposing front door and entering The Great Hall, with its intricately carved ceilings, magnificent stone fireplace, and gilt-framed portraits watching quietly from the walls, the hall showcases the very best of Jacobean and Georgian craftsmanship. It is grand yet inviting, a room where history feels both present and protective.
From here, an extraordinary staircase sweeps upward, its carved figures each whispering a fragment of Hartwell’s long story. Our Royal Four Poster Suite continued this seamless blend of elegance and comfort. Sunlight filtered through tall sash windows dressed in embroidered swags, illuminating cushioned window seats overlooking the wide lawns. The room was serene and spacious, centred around a magnificent four-poster bed draped in matching floral fabrics. A Persian-style rug anchored a cosy sitting area, furnished with powder-blue armchairs, a marble-topped table, and a raspberry, red sofa. Antique pieces, carved wooden chairs, delicate side tables, and framed botanical prints added character at every turn. Soft patterned wallpaper wrapped the room in warmth, and high ceilings with ornate plasterwork emphasised its historic grandeur. Far more than a hotel suite, it felt like stepping into a beautifully preserved chapter of English heritage.
Afternoon tea was served in the Morning Room, framed by tall windows overlooking the gardens. With delicate china, perfectly risen scones, and pastries that resembled miniature artworks, the experience was indulgent yet unpretentious. The room, like so much of Hartwell, encourages lingering, ideal for slow conversations, long-awaited books, and quiet, reflective moments.
As evening settled, we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks and dainty hors d’oeuvres in the Library. Surrounded by leather-bound volumes and pools of soft lamplight, it felt charmingly intimate, as though we had been invited into a private salon belonging to an old friend with impeccable taste.
Dinner unfolded in the Soane Dining Room, inspired by Sir John Soane’s work at 11 Downing Street. The space, with its tall columns, candlelit glow, and understated detailing, struck a beautiful balance between ceremony and comfort. The menu was full of temptations. After much deliberation, we chose a whipped goat’s cheese and honey tartlet with tomatoes and pesto, a delicate harmony of sweet and savoury, followed by pan-fried sea bass with swede boulangerie, spinach, and swede purée. The crisp skin and tender flesh paired perfectly with the buttery warmth of the swede. The Beef Wellington, served with celeriac and truffle purée, pickled mushrooms, and creamy potatoes, was melt-in-the-mouth delicious. Dessert was a triumphant sticky toffee pudding with custard, sticky toffee ice cream, and a crisp brandy snap, nostalgic, sweet, and irresistibly comforting.
We returned to the Drawing Room for coffee, reluctant to leave the gentle glow of the fire. Eventually we ascended the Grand Staircase, pausing again to admire a carving we somehow missed earlier, a reminder that Hartwell rewards those who look closely.
Morning brought sunlight stretching across the gardens and a generous breakfast of pastries, fruit, yoghurt, jams, and a hearty full English, accompanied by tea and fresh coffee. Afterwards, a gentle stroll through the grounds offered fresh perspectives on the house, its elegance somehow more impressive from afar.
The day continued with a visit to the spa, where I indulged in a 111SKIN facial. From the moment the therapist began layering the brand’s signature formulas, cooling, silky, and delicately scented, my skin seemed to drink in every luxurious ingredient. Gentle lymphatic massage eased tension from my face and neck, and the renowned treatment mask left my complexion brighter, firmer, and deeply hydrated. Emerging into softly scented air, I felt renewed, my skin luminous with post-treatment radiance.
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Hartwell House makes you feel like Royalty not through extravagance, but through serenity, beauty, and an unmistakable sense of being cared for. It is a place to breathe deeply, to wander freely, to imagine richly, and to indulge wholeheartedly. A sanctuary steeped in history yet alive with warmth, a place truly fit for a King.
BOOK IT
Prices start from £315 B&B per room, per night.
